The views and opinions expressed here are my own and do not represent those of the Peace Corps or the U.S. Government

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Diapason



Diapason (n)- a full, rich outpouring of melodious sound. 

I wrote this a few weeks ago but thought I would share it now that I have had time to type it up. 


I attended a memorial lecture honoring Stephen Bantu Biko last night. The event was hosted jointly by CANRAD, NMMU’s Center for the Advancement of Non-Racialism and Democracy and AZAPO, the Azanian People’s Organization. Azania refers to the land stretching down from East Africa, basically Sub-Saharan Africa. It’s interesting to see a center for non-racialism and the former Black Consciousness Movement operating together. Does “non-racialism” imply anti-racism, which implies an ownership of racial identity by oppressed groups? I was always under the impression that Steve Biko’s work with promoting Black Consciousness was rejecting the white status quo to reject “Blackness.” That doesn’t seem to mesh so well with non-racialism. Indeed, the entire student/staff body was invited to the event, multiple times, but the vast majority of the attendees were AZAPO members. I was one of four white people in an auditorium full of people. It bothers me that since I have been living here, I have a tendency to take a inventory of the represented groups. Not specifically racial groups, but genders, languages, nationalities, whether people wear glasses or not. I first thought it was a reaction to South Africa’s significantly different racial composition but maybe I am simply trying to learn about the nation’s people. I remember in high school history class answering the question “How many races are there?” with “One: human.”However, people here are much attached, defining themselves by their racial/ethnic/cultural groups. The number of races is pretty much set: Black, White, Coloured, Indian. Race and differences between races are just too important to the history here, I suppose. People don’t want to separate themselves from their past struggles or achievements to embrace unity and justice. People should in no way abandon their unique cultural traditions or languages but the animosity seen sometimes is staggering to me. I have been told, “Oh, no, Zulus hate Xhosas,” “Oh, it’s because he’s Shaangaan. Nobody likes the Shangaan,” “I’m not African. I’m South African,” and “I’m not Khoi; I’m not San. I’m not that African. I’m more Griqua [I can’t pronounce your Xhosa last name].” 

                I have noticed that it sometimes looks as though people segregate themselves according to race but what is actually happening is quite different. Even though English is the language of business, politics, and higher education in South Africa, almost no one’s first language is English. People learn to speak English as they grow up but speak a variety of other languages at home. Even for one who is fluent in another language, using the first language is probably more comfortable. If there are others around who speak your home language, you are going to gravitate towards them to be able to better communicate. It just so happens that native Xhosa speakers have dark skin while native Afrikaans speakers have lighter skin. I have no idea to what extent this factor divides people but language is definitely the segregating factor in my classes at the university. It’s actually a bit frustrating because in group settings, the people who speak the same languages will be talking to one another and those like me, who do not speak Afrikaans, Xhosa, Zulu, or any other represented language, are left out of the loop. This is a difficult issue: surely having a variety of language groups is indicative of a thriving diverse community. Suppression of the speaking of native languages was a policy of the Apartheid government. The problem is that the people are literally not speaking the same language; how can they communicate with one another? Can a community exist without communication? If not, the result is sub-communities still segregated along the lines of language and, unintentionally, race as well. 

Anyways, at the event, I was slightly concerned that I wouldn’t be welcome as a white person at a Black Consciousness Movement event. It’s like one day when my Momma asked me as I said I enjoyed a song that talked about Jesus, “What does it mean to you?” It means I stand in solidarity with the struggle of the past that is still quite evidently unresolved today. It means I recognize Steve Biko’s work, his morals, his courage and his power and that I denounce the injustices of the era when he fought. Of course, no one paid me (or my skin color) any attention. The nice guy sitting next to me thought I was afraid of all the Black people (he told me so) and he thought it was funny that I didn’t understand any of the Xhosa being spoken. I suppose I was a little overwhelmed but I was never scared.  

Something that I have noticed being here is that Black speakers are very long-winded. They take a long time to say what they mean. The most proficient speakers take long, almost excruciating pauses in the middle of their sentences to heighten the drama between clauses (if you don’t believe me, watch a YouTube video of one of Jacob Zuma’s speeches). I was not all that impressed with the event’s keynote speaker. He spoke about the inadequacies of today’s political leadership in contrast to that of Biko’s time, mostly criticizing the current government. Everyone knows the country, the continent, the whole world has problems. This professor (Comrade Mosala) offered no solutions to the predicament and in no way connected the problems with AZAPO’s cause except for saying that AZAPO was better than the ANC.  How can this possibly mesh with Biko’s ideas of power through unity? In the question section, someone asked what the solution to our problems is and he replied with, “I cannot tell you the answers. To find them, you must go out and try to die, like Biko did. It is your time to die.” While I appreciated the sentimentalism, I did not really care for the sentiments. I though South Africa was past that point? That we would stand for no more death in the name of freedom? I suppose the Marikana events of late indicate otherwise. The Prof said he had prepared an end to his talk that praised the future of humanity in light and in respect of Biko’s legacy but that he felt entirely unjustified in delivering it given the deaths at Marikana. 

The part of the talk that was the most captivating was his personal experience with Biko and his leadership. After having been arrested with six of his comrades for a political demonstration, Biko asked to see Mosala specifically and apparently criticized him: if you are only seven people, no matter if you have right ideas, you are not a being a leader. A leader is nothing without followers (or something to that effect). Unfortunately, the rest of the speech was wholly unremarkable. The best part of the event for me was hearing the protest songs being sung by the AZAPO members. Everyone was standing up, clapping, swaying, and rocking in time to the diapason of deep bases and soulful altos. At the end, we sang N’kosi Sikelel’ iAfrika and I felt quite proud to be standing there, with my ‘a’ shape fist in the air, singing along. It’s an old hymn turned resistance song turned national anthem, creating unity out of disparity. But then, even still, some Afrikaner folk only sing the parts in English and Afrikaans because they haven’t bothered to learn the words in the other languages. Even still, I felt like an imposter perching in the precipice of integration not diving into the pool. I read Khabzela (finally) last week and the author brought up a point that I often think but don’t see reflected in South African culture: sometimes eclecticism can be counterproductive. People trying to work together, live together, and create a unified, peaceful country together aren’t privileged to the same background, aren’t raised with the same values or goals. How can they be communicating? Why weren’t there more white folk at that event? Integrating such diversity into a functional whole is a hefty challenge South Africa is facing. 

The week before, Stephen and I went to the NMMU choir presentation as per my request and his reluctance. When the choir came on, they started singing in such a diapason that I couldn’t help the tears from running down my cheeks. “THIS,” I thought, “is the Africa I have been looking for.” I started to realize that the glorious, unified image South Africa portrays to the rest of the world is a careful façade, a show. The choir was just as comfortable with medieval German  as new South Africa. Sure, people are living together, sharing equal rights but the temporary celebration of freedom has fun out. The rejoicing is over and people are wondering when, if at all, their problems will be solved by the “New South Africa.” The beauty and grace of tradition integrated with modernity, of Mama Africa, is a poetic myth. I was quite naïve to think otherwise. We left the concert with Stephen bearing a pained look of “I told you so” and I feeling more disappointed in this country than ever. I though South Africa could, was going to, teach the world a thing or two about reconciliation. Until the AZAPO event, it seemed a farce. Now, I think: where things are moving forward, where problems are being solved, that spirit of Africa is absent. Where the spirit of Africa is, progress isn’t. I don’t know why.

Recapitulate


Recapitulate (v)- to review by a brief summary, as at the end of a speech or discussion; summarize.

When you don’t write for so long, it’s hard to start again because there are so many things to be said that one doesn’t know where to start. Excuses if there is no logical, even chronological flow in whatever follows.

I haven’t been writing for so long because… I dunno, really. I was extraordinarily busy with school for a few months, that’s one reason. Also, the internet at our house was down for most of a month, with intermittent periods of regular internet access. That has been an interesting exercise in time and resource management. I also sort of lost interest in writing. It felt like a chore more than a constructive activity. I reactivated my Facebook account so I could more easily communicate with people but it seems all I do is a fair bit of lurking. 

So, to recapitulate the past few months: 
What have I been up to… I became SCUBA certified. I had moderate success with my exams. I had four distinctions and one equivalent of a B+. The B+ was in my honours class, the exam for which was an 8 hour writing session. I'm happy with my marks. I had a wonderful vacation in July; my grandmother, mother, and sister came to visit. We went around P.E., to Cape Town, the Kruger area, and Johannesburg too. It was really an eye-opening experience for all of us. Seeing and meeting people from different parts of the country was rather humbling. We also had incredible animal encounters. It would probably take three pages to list all we saw at the game reserves we visited. My favorites were elephants trumpeting at the riverside, a civet, a group of white rhinos grazing in the sunset, and a pack of African wild dogs with their puppies. This trip also helped show me how much I had changed in the last few months. I felt very apart from my American family but still totally distanced from South African people as well. Identity changes with knowledge and experience, I suppose, along with convictions and beliefs. 

University started back up at the end of July. I had a module on evolution which took us on a fossil hunting excursion to the Karroo! That was amazing. No therapsids (mammal-like reptiles) were found by the class, but I found a trilobite pygostyle, some Glossopteris leaf imprints, and some casts of ancient brachiopods. My paleontologist dreams from my early life were coming true. We were also treated to San and Khoi rock art, a trip to Nieu-Bethesda to see the famous Owl House, and some of the best goat cheese I have ever eaten in my life. Wow. 
Can you look closely and see the rock art in the back?
The Owl House. I'll tell you all about it sometime.
Kompasberg from Ganora Farm, in the Karroo
What else… the weather has been right dreadful. As I write, the rain has been pouring non-stop for two days straight, with no indications of cessation anytime soon. I have spent many days hanging out watching movies and ‘scratching around on the internet,’ to borrow a phrase from my friend Stephen. I did an ecology project on hermit crabs; I wrote a massive project on the evolution of sex-determining mechanisms in reptiles and gave a presentation on this fascinating (bold= sarcasm) topic in front of the assembled zoology department; I extracted and sequenced frog DNA as a part of a larger biogeographic study on Strongylopus grayii, the clicking stream frog. I saw a pod of dolphins and a pod of whales. I saw a chameleon on my way to school on my birthday! Stephen took me to a reptile collector’s place where we held giant reticulated pythons (sorry, we didn’t take pictures) and we saw black mambas (eeek!). I’m reading copiously. I’m still volunteering somewhat regularly at the penguin rehabilitation center. Oh! I'm also volunteering teaching reading at a township school. I'll definitely talk more about that later.
 
For now, I’m mostly trying to enjoy the time here without worrying too much because home is little more than a month away. Although the end of the year is approaching quickly, this has been the longest year of my life, I think. Time has never been so reluctant to cooperate with me. Under expected circumstances, I would have wanted the year to go by slowly so that I could enjoy each moment to the fullest.  In actuality, I never foresaw how much I would miss the comfort of home. The familiarity, yes, but mostly the sensation that I know what to expect of the coming day and that the people I love the most are within arm’s reach.
I don’t know that with my knowledge of this year I would make the same choice to study abroad. I have made many mistakes and experienced some great sorrows. That being said, this has been an enlightening experience. The fact that it wasn’t a wholly positive lesson does not diminish its importance as a learning experience. I keep using that word. I know now that as much as I would like to volunteer with the Peace Corps in my future life, I am not a strong enough person to go on my own. I’m not giving up on that dream, just altering it slightly. At some point, I’ll make a list of everything I have learned this year. I do that every year, usually at the end of the school year but this year will be especially poignant. A recapitulation of this year, in one liners. I think that will explain the lessons I learned but leave out the nuances of the year, which I'm fine in keeping for now.

Saturday, June 16, 2012

Metagrobolized

Metagrobolized- (adj) totally confused and mixed up.

I'm metragrobolized from all this studying, all this free time, and all this country has to offer.

Here's a thing I wrote in my journal a few weeks ago regarding my first SCUBA dive:
I sort of was sick on Friday but I got up Saturday morning, suited up, and backflipped off a boat in the middle of Algoa Bay! The water was really choppy on the surface so I got nauseous both above and below water. The dive was something out of this world. We dropped off the pontoons, descended into green murky darkness and there before our widened eyes unfolded a breathtaking array of jubilant life: corals, fish, and seaweed. I was astounded. The water was chilly, about 16.5° C, but manageable. We saw eight spotted ragged tooth sharks (raggies), a sting ray, a ctenophore, an octopus hiding between two rocks, and so many fish! I became genuinely sick after we ascended wait wait go back there’s so much more to say about the world underwater. It was surprising, breath-taking (not so great when you have to remember to breathe through the regulator constantly), and beautiful. I felt an explorer wandering around a corner I’d passed by on a myriad of occasions who finally chose to deviate from the path. I never considered that I have been ignorant by being terrestrial. And yet I clearly am. The fish tolerated our presence impassively as we were rocked and swayed by the current. It was remarkably noisy down there; apparently the crackling crunching noise is the fish chomping off bits of coral and grinding it to pieces with their jaws. The bubbles, the waves, our exasperated breathing, the coral swaying, the sand shifting, the fish gnawing all contributed to the hence unbeknownst cacophony of underwater. Upon ascending, the BCD attempted to strangle me as our abilities to remove and replace our weight belts on the surface was tested. I was so sick and angry. I swear, climbing back on the boat is the most difficult part of the entire dive. I was not so enthusiastic about the experience after arriving home due to the motion-sickness, alcohol, and cigarette smoke of the after-dive lunch. Now I recall how amazing it was to float freely underwater and explore a habitat as different from my own as imaginably possible. One of the men we were diving with had an underwater camera so I’ll likely be receiving photographs of the experience at some point. I’ll be sure to share the good ones. 

 
For the past two weeks I have been doing embarrassingly little. Classes are over, exams have begun, but most of my exams are towards the end of the three-week period. I essentially took the first week off, just reviewing some of the literature for one class, reading recreationally, and enjoying some Doctor Who sprinkled down time. The weather was amazingly volatile: thunderstorms with lightning arched across the sky one hour and ice-cold clear night skies the next. I drink lots of tea. I redecorated my room somewhat. I sat bored and thought quite a bit. I know I’m not using my time here to the fullest but I’m not independent enough to just head off into town on my own and no one I ask wants to go with me. As exams are finished, everyone celebrates in drunken revelry which I’m avoiding like the plague. The more time I spend alone, the more homesick I become. Sigh. I don’t mean to be ungrateful or wasteful of my time but I don’t really know how to occupy it otherwise. The complaints of a comfortable first-world brat.Wish me luck on my exams. I have one that is supposed to last eight hours. Yikes.